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    • The process before leaving town...
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    • Annie Hart Cool
  • Life as it appears to me
  • Blog
  • Italy 2022
    • The process before leaving town...
    • About
    • Annie Hart Cool
  • Life as it appears to me
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Squeeze every worthwhile minute out of your day…

5/6/2022

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Magical Florence
We rose early, not because we wanted to but I had reserved “skip the line” tickets to the Accademie for 9 Am … I remember this hot box of circa 1500 sculpted marble with his joyous curls and his anatomically perfect junk would draw crowds and I wanted in before the super spreader event was in session.

The 4 of us were the only people on the road at 8:15. An occasional cyclist or dog walker and us. We had Firenze to ourselves. There were no people in front of the Doumo….we had its majesty all to ourselves.

The smell of espresso wafted passed us and we saw men nuzzled up to the bars shooting a quick jolt of liquid caffeine before starting their day. Street sweepers whirred and cracked as they bumped over the cobble stone piazzas.

we were among the first 20 people in the Museum.

What a treasure. It was still quiet. That first hour the few of us roaming the halls treated this sacred place with the silence of a Library and the reverence of a church.

​Maybe each of us were stunned by the colors, the articulate paintings, the story telling or the ancient nature of the talent.

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I for one, saw 1328 and thought…we Americans are the cocky young step children.

True artists would marvel at the primitive tools, the paints and the oils that were used to create these masterpieces which are still vibrant centuries later.

I just kept looking at the dates and thinking… did they paint by candlelight? How did these survive the wars, the fires, the plaques? What do you mean they are painted on wood and there could be 3 other paintings under this one?

I wanted to know about all the lions. I understood about the saints… I saw St. John carrying the sick and dying, I knew St Francis and all his wild creatures, I recognized St Mathew and his sword, I saw St Gabriel with his Spear. All the angels and Saints are represented …

​if you were to do a movie where these paintings came alive after dark…wow!

​Mayhem, Martyrdom and Orgys would rock these halls.

So this is what I was thinking when I roamed among greatness. I know you thought I wasn’t this shallow… but there you have it. I’ve not slept in two days and I was absolutely wishing the art work would come alive and join me in a street party…

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We left when the shoulder to shoulder swarm of humanity was growing deeper and louder. We needed coffee and to free up space for the lines of people circling the museum waiting for the privilege to see 12 foot Marble David with his lifelike features detailed and displayed by a 26 year old sculptor from 1500.

​David has his sling laying across his shoulder as if he’s saying…

”you want some of this ass whopping? Have you seen Goliath? Right? That was me….”
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Our Bike and Barge Itinerary!

Day 1: Individual arrival in Mantova


Day 2: Mantova, 21 mi. (35 km)


Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)

Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 + 60 km)

Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)

Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)

Day 7: Venice, free day

Day 8: Venice,
​departure following breakfast
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Mantova is one of the most beautiful towns in Northern Italy as many worldwide know artists have left their masterpieces for us to enjoy, thanks to the famous Gonzaga family! Benvenuti a Mantova!
Day 2: Mantova - round trip tour - 21 mi. (35 km)


This entire day is dedicated to the discovery of this wonderful city and its surroundings, dominated by the wealth and influences left by the Gonzaga family, who owned the city for over 400 years.

Mantova was considered one of the most important cultural cities in the Renaissance and it still maintains a lot of the landscapes and the building that made it famous during that period.

​ In the late afternoon, a local guide will lead you through the most known highlights of the town.

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Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)

After breakfast, on board, you navigate from the "lakes" of Mantova and cruise through the lush wetlands that lead to Governolo Lock, where Mantova's Mincio River flows into the Po.

​ From here, by bike, you follow the broad sweeps of the levee towards Ostiglia, renowned for its medieval fortress and fierce fighting in 1945, as the Allies drove Hitler's forces back.
Bergantino, home of the distinctive Museum of Fairground Rides and its collection of street organs, all expertly restored (and thunderous!).


This village is also in the heartland of Grana Padano, the arch-rival of Parmesan. A visit to the local cheese factory, sampling some well seasoned Grana, is a must-do.

​You meet the barge in Zelo, a sleepy village on the Canal Bianco, the waterway which runs parallel to the Po.
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Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 km by bike + 60 km by bus)
Following breakfast, you will start cycling towards Ferrara. Once you have reached the town, which earned the name of "city of bicycles", you will be enchanted by the historical center, still surrounded by the old city walls.

​You will enjoy a guided town tour. From Ferrara, a short bus transfer will bring you to Adria, an ancient Greek port, famous for trading amber coming from the Baltic. It's a remarkable museum that also bears witness to its Etruscan, Roman, and Venetian Heritage.
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​Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)
After a short ride on board, you cycle into the delta of the life-giving Po. This unique wetland is the prime reserve in Europe for herons and home to a sizeable colony of flamingos. Weather permitting, as you continue towards Chioggia, you can also enjoy a stop at a beach and a dip in the Adriatic - not forgetting a hot savory piadina! Chioggia is also known as "Little Venice", a colorful fishing hub. The overnight takes place on the island of  Pellestrina, just in front of Chioggia.
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Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)
Venice beckons, but first another world altogether: Pellestrina, the first of two islands you traverse today – a humble and tranquil fishing backwater, picturesque as ever with its cottages, boats, and nets. A short island-hop by ferry transfers to Lido. Fashionable in high society ever since the Belle Époque, the Lido di Venezia is now home to the International Venice Film Festival and its galaxy of stars.

​ After rejoining the barge, you will enjoy a leisure cruise in front of St Mark’s square to the final destination. After dinner, you can savor Venice at night, now free of the crowds and at her most romantic: Benvenuti a Venezia!
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Day 7: Venice, guided walking tour and free time
A guided walking tour of Venice begins around 11 am and lasts approximately 1.5 hours. It begins in St. Mark square and continues towards the bigger "sestiere" of the city, Castello.

You will visit Campo Santa Maria Formosa where you can experience a characteristic market and then a city hospital and large gothic church in Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Later, you will go to Campo Santa Marina and to the Rialto Bridge. During this tour, the guide will explain these sites from the outside, no entrances are planned. 
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I guess I always knew this… but forgot?

As we prepare to leave on vacation the energy in the house is a mix between excitement and dread. You know the anticipation? The expectation ! And all the things you forgot.

I take a breath and lean in to my suitcase. I don’t know why I fret. The few things I pack can be washed and reworn!

If Covid taught us nothing it taught us sweat pants can last a week if handled carefully! Two weeks in Italy requires comfort clothes and something a little stylish… but wait, I live on Cape Cod!

We have completed most of the requisites. The note to the Dog sitter, the walk about with the gardener, the cleaned out refrigerator… but then it dawns on us…
what about the storage on our phones?

​TONIGHT. Tonight we will be deleting everything. Sorry, but it’s true.
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