A thirsty country.
We knew the water supply is challenged in South Africa. All our travel documents warned us. As a tourist you are reminded by the tent cards in your room that invite you to be careful. The sinks and tubs won’t plug so there is no option for shaving water or a warm soak. It’s no big deal as a guest but then we spoke to Greta our driver and the shortage becomes very real. She says the reservoir for South Africa. (Including Cape Town) has just risen from 45% full to 62%. This area has been running under 50% for nearly 4 years. They are by law allowed to water their gardens for 1 hour 2 times a week on a rotating basis. Otherwise they will be fined by the government. She explains the water shortage has forced them to become creative Horticulturist as they now are planting more plants that require less water! Her family saves the water from their “daily living”. Dish water, bath water, shower water is all used again to water her gardens or wash her cars. She has a catch basin where she puts the reusable water for just these needs. We shared how shocked we were by the plastic! Everywhere we go we are handed plastic bottles and the bins of recyclable plastic bottles are toppling over. She agreed the plastic is a problem. Mostly just for tourist as tap water is not generally great for drinking. Africans are used to its salt and mineral qualities but Travelors often get sick. She told us of a restaurant in town that has banned straws. But they have become creative and make their own straws out of macaroni! We will try to find that spot! Water is a currency here. Everyone wants and needs it. I asked what the long term effects on the fruit and wheat production will be? She said they will adapt. Flavors will change... She sees prices rising. Watering trucks (like fire engines) move up and down the vineyards. The crisis is real. The Africans are “adapting”.
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When he shook my hand he held his wrist. I knew he was Zulu. When I asked his name he put his right hand over his heart and said “REA”.
He is our 24 year old bicycle guide. His smile is bright and I can tell he’s a natural comedian. Every time he said his name his right hand went up to his heart. I had to ask why. He said his name is a gift from his parents and “i honor them each time I say it by putting my hand to my heart because without their gift I would not have a place in the world. I thank them by touching my heart.” Ok. So this American shed a few solemn tears under my sunglasses with this poetic and heartfelt explanation. He’s a poet on a bike. I asked REA what he would like to do with his “big” life and he said he’s saving to go to architectural school. He walked my bike up a hill to the Richard Branson winery and smiled saying “don’t worry mum, many people have to walk this hill. Particularly after several glasses of wine.” I didn’t care if it was true or not. I just thought he was a generous kid being very kind to the out of shape old American lady. Mark was so impressed with REA that he bequeathed a Red Sox hat to the young man. REA knew absolutely nothing about the team but was eager to hear. He promised Mark he’d wear the hat for his American guests. REA is Great young man. I touch my heart when I say his name. To honor his parents who must be very proud! Simply beautiful day at the beach. I lived to tell the tale of crazy under tow!
At one point I yelled to Mark...”you’re losing me”.... As the under tow started to pull me Down the beach. He started to push me into shore... It was like being on the wash cycle in the ocean! Thanks to Carole for the photos! Fun but exhausting.... A hot bubble bath and a double absolute... Remedy for being spit out by the Indian Ocean. I am sore in places that I didn’t know I had... PS ...we later found out this deserted beach is deserted because it’s known for consuming people! Apparently there are signs. Language fail! We live to tell the story. Tomorrow I’ll be sore! Grateful to breathe ❤️ There were 30 of them. Uniformed in green khaki, guns slung over their shoulders walking in a straight line, shoulder to shoulder with 5 feet between them. We heard them crackling thru the bush before we actually saw them...
The sight of these armed men was both impressive and frightening. James tells us they are part of the Rhino Anti-poaching team. There was a threat of traps being set by poachers on the reserve and the militia were there looking for those traps. We were asked on the first day to turn our geo-tagging off on our phones as poachers use our photos of the rhinos as a method to locate them. I didn’t even know our phones geo tagged... Poaching is a real threat to these animals. Being on a reserve means nothing to the poacher. Learning every day. Zulu’s shake hands as a form of greeting. They shake with their right hand and their left hand is placed on their right wrist. They do this as a matter of course. No exception.
I am told the left hand on the wrist assures the person they are greeting there is no danger. The left hand can not be used as a weapon during a sincere greeting. The Zulus were a warrior nation. Now they are peace loving. |
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