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Steven Ambrose Battle of the Bulge Trip
2024 |
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IT'S GOING TO BE A HUMBLING EXPERIENCE - Annie and I are only a few days away from walking in some of the footsteps of our fathers during the 1944-45 Battle of the Bulge (80 yrs ago).
BELOW are listed some of the points of interest our tour will visit. I've added brief narratives to some... just to offer a glimpse of the "Hero Trail" we'll tread
NOTE near the bottom the three *** Flamierge. This is where my Dad "walked the walk"... I'll be getting into the specifics of his 513th PIR unit when Annie & I begin our video blog ...
Are you as excited as me?
• Losheimgraben Crossroads — first battle and spearhead of the German attack inflicting heavy American casualties and causing disorder on the frontlines.
• Krinkelt/Rocherath — area of a five day critical battle for the north shoulder of the Bulge
• Lausdell — a critical crossroads defended during the early hours of the Battle of the Bulge, American troops blunted the German spearhead
• Lanzerath — the first day of the Battle of the Bulge, a key route for the German advance on the northern shoulder of the operation, 18 Americans held off a German battalion of about 500 paratroopers for 20 hrs and finally surrendered.
• Honsfeld — 300 soldiers of the US 99th Infantry Division, all sleeping in the local village houses were captured by German forces, they quickly took around 300 American prisoners of war, later in the afternoon, several prisoner were taken out into the streets of the village, nineteen of them were murdered in retribution for the limited counterattack that had been made by them earlier in the day.
• Baugnex crossroads — 17 December 84 American prisoners were murdered, this massacre was part of a series of war crimes committed by the same unit during the previous and following days.
• Halftrack Memorial Stavelot
• 106th Infantry Division Memorial St. Vith
• 168th Engineer Battalion Monument
• Captain Eric Fisher Wood Memorial — Eric Wood Battery A, 589th Field Artillery Battalion, 106th Infantry Division, 17 December he escaped into the woods after a fight outside Schonberg. He could not get to the American lines and started on his own a guerrilla war. His body was found at the begining of February 1945, surrounded by seven killed German soldiers. On this location the memorial was erected.
• Clervaux — Battle was a tank engagement in northern Luxembourg, lasting from December 16 to 18, 1944, first tank battle of the Ardennes offensive and ended in total disaster for the Americans, who permanently lost nearly 60 tanks while the Germans lost only four.
• Hosingen — 300 men from US 28th Infantry Division ordered to hold at all costs in order to allow the Allies to send reinforcements to Bastogne and St. Vith, outnumbered they ran out of ammunition, sacrificing themselves for time. Stranded miles behind enemy lines, they had no choice but to surrender, they were able to hold on for three days, allowing the Allies to successfully move the troops
• Longvilly & St. Michael’s Grotto — American units were sent to Bastogne to defend this crucial crossroad town. One of these units was Combat Command B of the 10th Armored Division, the way back to Bastogne was cut off by German units. In the afternoon of December 19, German units attacked the vulnerable American column trapped on the road between Longvilly and Mageret from three sides, under heavy pressure they held out at the grotto of St-Michael eventually surrendering
• Marvie — 327th Glider infantrymen defended Marvie (just north of Bastonge) from advancing German panzergrenadiers and tanks, earning the moniker of the Bastogne Bulldogs
• Bastogne Barracks
• Bastogne War Rooms
• 101st Airborne Museum
• Noville — US 101st Airborne Division counterattacked against the Germans and recapture the village just outside of Bastogne,
• Foy & Bois Jacques — The 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment (PIR) of the 101st Airborne Division attacked Foy eventually being able to retake the town with the help of the US 11th Armored Division on January 13, 1945 ###(you may remember the Band of Brothers episode when Lt. Ronald Speirs ran through the town and German lines twice all the while being gawked at in amazement by US and German Soldiers ...by himself. I mention this because our next door neighbor [Martha Speirs 78 yrs] is his niece.)
• Flamierge ***— From 3 January 1945, the American troops of the U.S. 17th Airborne Division helping to liberate the villages in the area to the west of Bastogne. But it would prove to be a slow and costly process, and in some instances, it would take multiple efforts, 7 January the Flameirge was attacked and taken but German counterattacks gradually forced the Airborne troops to cede the village, 12 January it was retaken and held, The ridge above the village became known as ‘Dead Man's Ridge’ by soldiers of the Division because of the heavy losses incurred there during the fighting for the heights.
• Neffe — the closest point at which the German Army breakthrough managed to reach towards Bastogne in the east, on 19 and 20 December 1944.
• Bunker Assenois
• National Museum of Military History
• American Cemetery Luxembourg
• Battle of the Bulge Memorial Laroche en Ardenne
BELOW are listed some of the points of interest our tour will visit. I've added brief narratives to some... just to offer a glimpse of the "Hero Trail" we'll tread
NOTE near the bottom the three *** Flamierge. This is where my Dad "walked the walk"... I'll be getting into the specifics of his 513th PIR unit when Annie & I begin our video blog ...
Are you as excited as me?
• Losheimgraben Crossroads — first battle and spearhead of the German attack inflicting heavy American casualties and causing disorder on the frontlines.
• Krinkelt/Rocherath — area of a five day critical battle for the north shoulder of the Bulge
• Lausdell — a critical crossroads defended during the early hours of the Battle of the Bulge, American troops blunted the German spearhead
• Lanzerath — the first day of the Battle of the Bulge, a key route for the German advance on the northern shoulder of the operation, 18 Americans held off a German battalion of about 500 paratroopers for 20 hrs and finally surrendered.
• Honsfeld — 300 soldiers of the US 99th Infantry Division, all sleeping in the local village houses were captured by German forces, they quickly took around 300 American prisoners of war, later in the afternoon, several prisoner were taken out into the streets of the village, nineteen of them were murdered in retribution for the limited counterattack that had been made by them earlier in the day.
• Baugnex crossroads — 17 December 84 American prisoners were murdered, this massacre was part of a series of war crimes committed by the same unit during the previous and following days.
• Halftrack Memorial Stavelot
• 106th Infantry Division Memorial St. Vith
• 168th Engineer Battalion Monument
• Captain Eric Fisher Wood Memorial — Eric Wood Battery A, 589th Field Artillery Battalion, 106th Infantry Division, 17 December he escaped into the woods after a fight outside Schonberg. He could not get to the American lines and started on his own a guerrilla war. His body was found at the begining of February 1945, surrounded by seven killed German soldiers. On this location the memorial was erected.
• Clervaux — Battle was a tank engagement in northern Luxembourg, lasting from December 16 to 18, 1944, first tank battle of the Ardennes offensive and ended in total disaster for the Americans, who permanently lost nearly 60 tanks while the Germans lost only four.
• Hosingen — 300 men from US 28th Infantry Division ordered to hold at all costs in order to allow the Allies to send reinforcements to Bastogne and St. Vith, outnumbered they ran out of ammunition, sacrificing themselves for time. Stranded miles behind enemy lines, they had no choice but to surrender, they were able to hold on for three days, allowing the Allies to successfully move the troops
• Longvilly & St. Michael’s Grotto — American units were sent to Bastogne to defend this crucial crossroad town. One of these units was Combat Command B of the 10th Armored Division, the way back to Bastogne was cut off by German units. In the afternoon of December 19, German units attacked the vulnerable American column trapped on the road between Longvilly and Mageret from three sides, under heavy pressure they held out at the grotto of St-Michael eventually surrendering
• Marvie — 327th Glider infantrymen defended Marvie (just north of Bastonge) from advancing German panzergrenadiers and tanks, earning the moniker of the Bastogne Bulldogs
• Bastogne Barracks
• Bastogne War Rooms
• 101st Airborne Museum
• Noville — US 101st Airborne Division counterattacked against the Germans and recapture the village just outside of Bastogne,
• Foy & Bois Jacques — The 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment (PIR) of the 101st Airborne Division attacked Foy eventually being able to retake the town with the help of the US 11th Armored Division on January 13, 1945 ###(you may remember the Band of Brothers episode when Lt. Ronald Speirs ran through the town and German lines twice all the while being gawked at in amazement by US and German Soldiers ...by himself. I mention this because our next door neighbor [Martha Speirs 78 yrs] is his niece.)
• Flamierge ***— From 3 January 1945, the American troops of the U.S. 17th Airborne Division helping to liberate the villages in the area to the west of Bastogne. But it would prove to be a slow and costly process, and in some instances, it would take multiple efforts, 7 January the Flameirge was attacked and taken but German counterattacks gradually forced the Airborne troops to cede the village, 12 January it was retaken and held, The ridge above the village became known as ‘Dead Man's Ridge’ by soldiers of the Division because of the heavy losses incurred there during the fighting for the heights.
• Neffe — the closest point at which the German Army breakthrough managed to reach towards Bastogne in the east, on 19 and 20 December 1944.
• Bunker Assenois
• National Museum of Military History
• American Cemetery Luxembourg
• Battle of the Bulge Memorial Laroche en Ardenne
Our Bike and Barge Itinerary!
Day 1: Individual arrival in Mantova
Day 2: Mantova, 21 mi. (35 km)
Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)
Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 + 60 km)
Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)
Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)
Day 7: Venice, free day
Day 8: Venice,
departure following breakfast
Day 2: Mantova, 21 mi. (35 km)
Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)
Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 + 60 km)
Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)
Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)
Day 7: Venice, free day
Day 8: Venice,
departure following breakfast
Mantova is one of the most beautiful towns in Northern Italy as many worldwide know artists have left their masterpieces for us to enjoy, thanks to the famous Gonzaga family! Benvenuti a Mantova!
Day 2: Mantova - round trip tour - 21 mi. (35 km)
This entire day is dedicated to the discovery of this wonderful city and its surroundings, dominated by the wealth and influences left by the Gonzaga family, who owned the city for over 400 years.
Mantova was considered one of the most important cultural cities in the Renaissance and it still maintains a lot of the landscapes and the building that made it famous during that period.
In the late afternoon, a local guide will lead you through the most known highlights of the town.
This entire day is dedicated to the discovery of this wonderful city and its surroundings, dominated by the wealth and influences left by the Gonzaga family, who owned the city for over 400 years.
Mantova was considered one of the most important cultural cities in the Renaissance and it still maintains a lot of the landscapes and the building that made it famous during that period.
In the late afternoon, a local guide will lead you through the most known highlights of the town.
Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)
After breakfast, on board, you navigate from the "lakes" of Mantova and cruise through the lush wetlands that lead to Governolo Lock, where Mantova's Mincio River flows into the Po.
From here, by bike, you follow the broad sweeps of the levee towards Ostiglia, renowned for its medieval fortress and fierce fighting in 1945, as the Allies drove Hitler's forces back.
After breakfast, on board, you navigate from the "lakes" of Mantova and cruise through the lush wetlands that lead to Governolo Lock, where Mantova's Mincio River flows into the Po.
From here, by bike, you follow the broad sweeps of the levee towards Ostiglia, renowned for its medieval fortress and fierce fighting in 1945, as the Allies drove Hitler's forces back.
Bergantino, home of the distinctive Museum of Fairground Rides and its collection of street organs, all expertly restored (and thunderous!).
This village is also in the heartland of Grana Padano, the arch-rival of Parmesan. A visit to the local cheese factory, sampling some well seasoned Grana, is a must-do.
You meet the barge in Zelo, a sleepy village on the Canal Bianco, the waterway which runs parallel to the Po.
This village is also in the heartland of Grana Padano, the arch-rival of Parmesan. A visit to the local cheese factory, sampling some well seasoned Grana, is a must-do.
You meet the barge in Zelo, a sleepy village on the Canal Bianco, the waterway which runs parallel to the Po.
Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 km by bike + 60 km by bus)
Following breakfast, you will start cycling towards Ferrara. Once you have reached the town, which earned the name of "city of bicycles", you will be enchanted by the historical center, still surrounded by the old city walls.
You will enjoy a guided town tour. From Ferrara, a short bus transfer will bring you to Adria, an ancient Greek port, famous for trading amber coming from the Baltic. It's a remarkable museum that also bears witness to its Etruscan, Roman, and Venetian Heritage.
Following breakfast, you will start cycling towards Ferrara. Once you have reached the town, which earned the name of "city of bicycles", you will be enchanted by the historical center, still surrounded by the old city walls.
You will enjoy a guided town tour. From Ferrara, a short bus transfer will bring you to Adria, an ancient Greek port, famous for trading amber coming from the Baltic. It's a remarkable museum that also bears witness to its Etruscan, Roman, and Venetian Heritage.
Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)
After a short ride on board, you cycle into the delta of the life-giving Po. This unique wetland is the prime reserve in Europe for herons and home to a sizeable colony of flamingos. Weather permitting, as you continue towards Chioggia, you can also enjoy a stop at a beach and a dip in the Adriatic - not forgetting a hot savory piadina! Chioggia is also known as "Little Venice", a colorful fishing hub. The overnight takes place on the island of Pellestrina, just in front of Chioggia.
After a short ride on board, you cycle into the delta of the life-giving Po. This unique wetland is the prime reserve in Europe for herons and home to a sizeable colony of flamingos. Weather permitting, as you continue towards Chioggia, you can also enjoy a stop at a beach and a dip in the Adriatic - not forgetting a hot savory piadina! Chioggia is also known as "Little Venice", a colorful fishing hub. The overnight takes place on the island of Pellestrina, just in front of Chioggia.
Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)
Venice beckons, but first another world altogether: Pellestrina, the first of two islands you traverse today – a humble and tranquil fishing backwater, picturesque as ever with its cottages, boats, and nets. A short island-hop by ferry transfers to Lido. Fashionable in high society ever since the Belle Époque, the Lido di Venezia is now home to the International Venice Film Festival and its galaxy of stars.
After rejoining the barge, you will enjoy a leisure cruise in front of St Mark’s square to the final destination. After dinner, you can savor Venice at night, now free of the crowds and at her most romantic: Benvenuti a Venezia!
Venice beckons, but first another world altogether: Pellestrina, the first of two islands you traverse today – a humble and tranquil fishing backwater, picturesque as ever with its cottages, boats, and nets. A short island-hop by ferry transfers to Lido. Fashionable in high society ever since the Belle Époque, the Lido di Venezia is now home to the International Venice Film Festival and its galaxy of stars.
After rejoining the barge, you will enjoy a leisure cruise in front of St Mark’s square to the final destination. After dinner, you can savor Venice at night, now free of the crowds and at her most romantic: Benvenuti a Venezia!
Day 7: Venice, guided walking tour and free time
A guided walking tour of Venice begins around 11 am and lasts approximately 1.5 hours. It begins in St. Mark square and continues towards the bigger "sestiere" of the city, Castello.
You will visit Campo Santa Maria Formosa where you can experience a characteristic market and then a city hospital and large gothic church in Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Later, you will go to Campo Santa Marina and to the Rialto Bridge. During this tour, the guide will explain these sites from the outside, no entrances are planned.
A guided walking tour of Venice begins around 11 am and lasts approximately 1.5 hours. It begins in St. Mark square and continues towards the bigger "sestiere" of the city, Castello.
You will visit Campo Santa Maria Formosa where you can experience a characteristic market and then a city hospital and large gothic church in Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Later, you will go to Campo Santa Marina and to the Rialto Bridge. During this tour, the guide will explain these sites from the outside, no entrances are planned.
I guess I always knew this… but forgot?
As we prepare to leave on vacation the energy in the house is a mix between excitement and dread. You know the anticipation? The expectation ! And all the things you forgot.
I take a breath and lean in to my suitcase. I don’t know why I fret. The few things I pack can be washed and reworn!
If Covid taught us nothing it taught us sweat pants can last a week if handled carefully! Two weeks in Italy requires comfort clothes and something a little stylish… but wait, I live on Cape Cod!
We have completed most of the requisites. The note to the Dog sitter, the walk about with the gardener, the cleaned out refrigerator… but then it dawns on us…
what about the storage on our phones?
TONIGHT. Tonight we will be deleting everything. Sorry, but it’s true.
I take a breath and lean in to my suitcase. I don’t know why I fret. The few things I pack can be washed and reworn!
If Covid taught us nothing it taught us sweat pants can last a week if handled carefully! Two weeks in Italy requires comfort clothes and something a little stylish… but wait, I live on Cape Cod!
We have completed most of the requisites. The note to the Dog sitter, the walk about with the gardener, the cleaned out refrigerator… but then it dawns on us…
what about the storage on our phones?
TONIGHT. Tonight we will be deleting everything. Sorry, but it’s true.
