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Cool Annie's Travels
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    • The process before leaving town...
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    • Annie Hart Cool
  • Life as it appears to me
  • Blog
  • Italy 2022
    • The process before leaving town...
    • About
    • Annie Hart Cool
  • Life as it appears to me

Cool Annie's Travels

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Humbled...

11/14/2018

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Exhausted and humbled...


The ride from Richards Bay Airportl to Zulu Nyala was startling. The shacks or lean-tos called home to most people and the out house next door.


Women with babies strapped to their fronts and backs stood on the street hailing a ride like impressionable teenagers. There were local venders hawking their pine apples,wooden bowls or straw rugs. Our driver says the vendors live right there, in the woods behind the their merchandise.


Able, our young Zulu driver, has a smile that lights up the room. He uses the word “lovely” as some would use ‘Mam’. So for the hour and a half ride he sounded like this:
“How are you doing, lovely.” When we got stopped by the Police for a busted brake light, he said “not to worry, lovely, I am most apologetic.”


Able has been working for Zulu Nyala for 2 months. He is Zulu. He is delivered by the tribe along with 30 other new employees in the morning and then carried back to his village at night. His gratitude for employment is palpable. As he drives away from the cop... he rakes his hand across his head several times in a nervous tick. “Oh, lovely, I am most apologetic the light was not broken when I left to pick you up today”. I assured him we understood and to not worry. Mark actually slept through the entire incident. It was then I realized this interaction with the road side police is a “fire-able” offense, he was literally worried about his future with the company!


Once at Zulu Nyala we were checked in and shown around the newly improved campus. The landscaping that has been done is remarkable! But it displaces the zebras, monkeys and Nyala that used to hang out side the tents. There are lit pathways, water features with fountains and lots of giant aloe plants. The crocodile pit remains and those wonderful pre historic killers had just been fed and they were sunning themselves in the 80 degree heat. This place is so different from 5 years ago.


Our “room” is a half mile walk from reception and a man smaller than our luggage leads the way. He is surefooted and knows every one we pass. He has worked here 20 years. When we arrive at our room we are stunned.


The patio faces the mountains for sunset. The wall of glass as an entry way brings the outside in to this 600 square foot luxury accommodation. He puts our luggage down on the luggage racks at the bottom of the king sized bed and then teaches Mark how to use the Air conditioning. Our room has a couple of extra couches and two twin sized day beds. There is a “kitchenette” and a charging station. The bathroom is twice the size of our office board room. I’m humbled.


So many local Zulu live in “lean to’s” with no bathroom facilities or running water and then smack dab in the middle of their poverty is this glamorous facility for first world guests. It has to be surreal for the employees.


Dinner is served in and outdoor faculty under the stars. There are a lot of Americans here. All “winners” of auction packages like us.


Mark and I are 24 hours without sleep so we snuggle in early as we have a 5:30 am safari run in the morning with James, our ranger.


The tree frogs sing to us all the way back to our room. They are frigging crazy loud!





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Our Bike and Barge Itinerary!

Day 1: Individual arrival in Mantova


Day 2: Mantova, 21 mi. (35 km)


Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)

Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 + 60 km)

Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)

Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)

Day 7: Venice, free day

Day 8: Venice,
​departure following breakfast
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Mantova is one of the most beautiful towns in Northern Italy as many worldwide know artists have left their masterpieces for us to enjoy, thanks to the famous Gonzaga family! Benvenuti a Mantova!
Day 2: Mantova - round trip tour - 21 mi. (35 km)


This entire day is dedicated to the discovery of this wonderful city and its surroundings, dominated by the wealth and influences left by the Gonzaga family, who owned the city for over 400 years.

Mantova was considered one of the most important cultural cities in the Renaissance and it still maintains a lot of the landscapes and the building that made it famous during that period.

​ In the late afternoon, a local guide will lead you through the most known highlights of the town.

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Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)

After breakfast, on board, you navigate from the "lakes" of Mantova and cruise through the lush wetlands that lead to Governolo Lock, where Mantova's Mincio River flows into the Po.

​ From here, by bike, you follow the broad sweeps of the levee towards Ostiglia, renowned for its medieval fortress and fierce fighting in 1945, as the Allies drove Hitler's forces back.
Bergantino, home of the distinctive Museum of Fairground Rides and its collection of street organs, all expertly restored (and thunderous!).


This village is also in the heartland of Grana Padano, the arch-rival of Parmesan. A visit to the local cheese factory, sampling some well seasoned Grana, is a must-do.

​You meet the barge in Zelo, a sleepy village on the Canal Bianco, the waterway which runs parallel to the Po.
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Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 km by bike + 60 km by bus)
Following breakfast, you will start cycling towards Ferrara. Once you have reached the town, which earned the name of "city of bicycles", you will be enchanted by the historical center, still surrounded by the old city walls.

​You will enjoy a guided town tour. From Ferrara, a short bus transfer will bring you to Adria, an ancient Greek port, famous for trading amber coming from the Baltic. It's a remarkable museum that also bears witness to its Etruscan, Roman, and Venetian Heritage.
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​Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)
After a short ride on board, you cycle into the delta of the life-giving Po. This unique wetland is the prime reserve in Europe for herons and home to a sizeable colony of flamingos. Weather permitting, as you continue towards Chioggia, you can also enjoy a stop at a beach and a dip in the Adriatic - not forgetting a hot savory piadina! Chioggia is also known as "Little Venice", a colorful fishing hub. The overnight takes place on the island of  Pellestrina, just in front of Chioggia.
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Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)
Venice beckons, but first another world altogether: Pellestrina, the first of two islands you traverse today – a humble and tranquil fishing backwater, picturesque as ever with its cottages, boats, and nets. A short island-hop by ferry transfers to Lido. Fashionable in high society ever since the Belle Époque, the Lido di Venezia is now home to the International Venice Film Festival and its galaxy of stars.

​ After rejoining the barge, you will enjoy a leisure cruise in front of St Mark’s square to the final destination. After dinner, you can savor Venice at night, now free of the crowds and at her most romantic: Benvenuti a Venezia!
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Day 7: Venice, guided walking tour and free time
A guided walking tour of Venice begins around 11 am and lasts approximately 1.5 hours. It begins in St. Mark square and continues towards the bigger "sestiere" of the city, Castello.

You will visit Campo Santa Maria Formosa where you can experience a characteristic market and then a city hospital and large gothic church in Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Later, you will go to Campo Santa Marina and to the Rialto Bridge. During this tour, the guide will explain these sites from the outside, no entrances are planned. 
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I guess I always knew this… but forgot?

As we prepare to leave on vacation the energy in the house is a mix between excitement and dread. You know the anticipation? The expectation ! And all the things you forgot.

I take a breath and lean in to my suitcase. I don’t know why I fret. The few things I pack can be washed and reworn!

If Covid taught us nothing it taught us sweat pants can last a week if handled carefully! Two weeks in Italy requires comfort clothes and something a little stylish… but wait, I live on Cape Cod!

We have completed most of the requisites. The note to the Dog sitter, the walk about with the gardener, the cleaned out refrigerator… but then it dawns on us…
what about the storage on our phones?

​TONIGHT. Tonight we will be deleting everything. Sorry, but it’s true.
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