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  • Italy 2022
    • The process before leaving town...
    • About
    • Annie Hart Cool
  • Life as it appears to me

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We held hands and barely spoke...

9/25/2015

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Powerful, Sobering,and Concerning....Normandy American Cemetery

I've heard about June 6,1944.  

I've watched "Saving Private Ryan" and "Band of Brothers". 

 I've listen to the stories shared by WWII veterans but somehow until your here, on the cliffs looking out over Omaha and Utah beaches, with the 9,387 headstones behind you...it just doesn't resonate.

Tour buses of every nationality empty into the parking lots and this spill of humanity is remarkably somber.  Instinctively voices are lowered to a respectful whisper.  The demographic of guests is clear.  

The baby boomers remember their parents angst.  They remember their Uncle or grandfather and the stories.  They are here, like me, to honor and thank this generation for their sacrifice.

Missing from the tourists this day, any one under 40.  

Sure there are some school groups.  But those kids are too busy flirting with each other or texting on their cell phones to really take this place in.

We wondered out loud if "the greatest generation" will truly be lost when our generation is no longer here to care?  What if years from now these protected memorials fall into disrepair and are lost to development because the lack of stewardship.  

We walk down the center mall of the cemetery and stop like hundreds of other Americans visiting when we hear the National Anthem over the loud speakers.   The Americans  stop, face the flag and wait until the song is complete to continue their visit.  

 This training from childhood made the non-Americans stand out as they continued to browse the gravestones.  

Then it dawned on us.  Maybe this act of respect is no longer taught?  Isn't our anthem more associated with "ball games" these days?  Secretly, I know several of us wanted to yell "play ball" when the song ended.  Training.

We walked to the chapel reading the stats:  

Headstones 9,387

Latin crosses 9,238

Stars of David 149

Missing in action 1,557

Sets of Brothers 45

Medal of Honor recipients 3

I placed some small American flags at graves of unknown soldiers.  Several visitors bought flowers to lay on the graves.  

Gun shots get our attention.  We turn to look back toward the main memorial and the the bugle sounds  the haunting sound of "Taps". 

The sniffles start.  The Kleenex are pulled from pockets and purses throughout the cemetery. 

Kids.  Just young adults doing what their country asked them to do...  16-40 year old soldiers memorialized here.  On this hallowed ground.

So grateful to have made this visit.  Photos to follow as they are on my camera not my phone.








 



5 Comments
Melissa Rutledge
9/25/2015 06:50:10 pm

Totally moving...

Reply
Annie Hart Cool
9/25/2015 06:51:54 pm

Truly...

Reply
Sue O'Brien
9/25/2015 07:02:05 pm

Annie, thank you for providing a meaningful, and thought provoking illustration of your experience with the "hallowed ground" of Normandy's American Cemetery.

Reply
Annie Hart Cool
9/25/2015 07:03:55 pm

Sometimes writing is a process to clarity...this was a special day...thanks for reading my stuff...

Reply
Jan Heckler Souweine
9/26/2015 08:39:48 am

Annie.....so beautifully written. Working for so many years for the National Cemetery Administration I appreciate your every feeling in those hallowed grounds. The American Battle Monunent Commission is tasked to maintain all of our American Overseas cemeteries. Rest assured they will always be maintained as they are now honoring those that gave the ultimate sacrifice. Thankfully we teach our children to respect our National Anthem. Even though I have stood thousands of times at somber attention during TAPS I still find it the most emotional 24 notes ever heard.

Thank you for sharing your trip with us at home!

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Our Bike and Barge Itinerary!

Day 1: Individual arrival in Mantova


Day 2: Mantova, 21 mi. (35 km)


Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)

Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 + 60 km)

Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)

Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)

Day 7: Venice, free day

Day 8: Venice,
​departure following breakfast
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Mantova is one of the most beautiful towns in Northern Italy as many worldwide know artists have left their masterpieces for us to enjoy, thanks to the famous Gonzaga family! Benvenuti a Mantova!
Day 2: Mantova - round trip tour - 21 mi. (35 km)


This entire day is dedicated to the discovery of this wonderful city and its surroundings, dominated by the wealth and influences left by the Gonzaga family, who owned the city for over 400 years.

Mantova was considered one of the most important cultural cities in the Renaissance and it still maintains a lot of the landscapes and the building that made it famous during that period.

​ In the late afternoon, a local guide will lead you through the most known highlights of the town.

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Day 3: Mantova - Governolo - Zelo, 32 mi. (50 km)

After breakfast, on board, you navigate from the "lakes" of Mantova and cruise through the lush wetlands that lead to Governolo Lock, where Mantova's Mincio River flows into the Po.

​ From here, by bike, you follow the broad sweeps of the levee towards Ostiglia, renowned for its medieval fortress and fierce fighting in 1945, as the Allies drove Hitler's forces back.
Bergantino, home of the distinctive Museum of Fairground Rides and its collection of street organs, all expertly restored (and thunderous!).


This village is also in the heartland of Grana Padano, the arch-rival of Parmesan. A visit to the local cheese factory, sampling some well seasoned Grana, is a must-do.

​You meet the barge in Zelo, a sleepy village on the Canal Bianco, the waterway which runs parallel to the Po.
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Day 4: Zelo - Ferrara - Adria, 31 mi. by bike + 37 mi. by bus (50 km by bike + 60 km by bus)
Following breakfast, you will start cycling towards Ferrara. Once you have reached the town, which earned the name of "city of bicycles", you will be enchanted by the historical center, still surrounded by the old city walls.

​You will enjoy a guided town tour. From Ferrara, a short bus transfer will bring you to Adria, an ancient Greek port, famous for trading amber coming from the Baltic. It's a remarkable museum that also bears witness to its Etruscan, Roman, and Venetian Heritage.
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​Day 5: Adria - Po Delta Nature Reserve - Pellestrina Island, 25 mi. (40 km)
After a short ride on board, you cycle into the delta of the life-giving Po. This unique wetland is the prime reserve in Europe for herons and home to a sizeable colony of flamingos. Weather permitting, as you continue towards Chioggia, you can also enjoy a stop at a beach and a dip in the Adriatic - not forgetting a hot savory piadina! Chioggia is also known as "Little Venice", a colorful fishing hub. The overnight takes place on the island of  Pellestrina, just in front of Chioggia.
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Day 6: Pellestrina Island - Venice, 19 mi. (30 km)
Venice beckons, but first another world altogether: Pellestrina, the first of two islands you traverse today – a humble and tranquil fishing backwater, picturesque as ever with its cottages, boats, and nets. A short island-hop by ferry transfers to Lido. Fashionable in high society ever since the Belle Époque, the Lido di Venezia is now home to the International Venice Film Festival and its galaxy of stars.

​ After rejoining the barge, you will enjoy a leisure cruise in front of St Mark’s square to the final destination. After dinner, you can savor Venice at night, now free of the crowds and at her most romantic: Benvenuti a Venezia!
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Day 7: Venice, guided walking tour and free time
A guided walking tour of Venice begins around 11 am and lasts approximately 1.5 hours. It begins in St. Mark square and continues towards the bigger "sestiere" of the city, Castello.

You will visit Campo Santa Maria Formosa where you can experience a characteristic market and then a city hospital and large gothic church in Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Later, you will go to Campo Santa Marina and to the Rialto Bridge. During this tour, the guide will explain these sites from the outside, no entrances are planned. 
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I guess I always knew this… but forgot?

As we prepare to leave on vacation the energy in the house is a mix between excitement and dread. You know the anticipation? The expectation ! And all the things you forgot.

I take a breath and lean in to my suitcase. I don’t know why I fret. The few things I pack can be washed and reworn!

If Covid taught us nothing it taught us sweat pants can last a week if handled carefully! Two weeks in Italy requires comfort clothes and something a little stylish… but wait, I live on Cape Cod!

We have completed most of the requisites. The note to the Dog sitter, the walk about with the gardener, the cleaned out refrigerator… but then it dawns on us…
what about the storage on our phones?

​TONIGHT. Tonight we will be deleting everything. Sorry, but it’s true.
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